I've seen others do this, but I think it is important to practice building a frustum before mangling $130 worth of copper.
I ordered my copper today and will be ordering one MHT1003N tomorrow.
I am still unsure why it isn't as simple as piece A is in free space and locks into piece B (like puzzle pieces) in which case they become entangled and rotate with angular momentum, and if left undisturbed they remain entangled (rotating) even when separated such that when observed periodically the answer is yep, they are still 180 degrees out of phase and rotating with angular momentum. I would think the only hidden variable would be how they lock together and exchange momentum to reach equilibrium rotation.
Emdrive theory and Quantum Entanglement - Spent a lot of time refreshing myself on basic QM this weekend, looking for anything new and how it might relate. Its a familiar rabbit hole with lots of Sean Carroll type Multiverse and Ron Garrett type Zero Universe pronouncements.
I've seen others do this, but I think it is important to practice building a frustum before mangling $130 worth of copper.
I ordered my copper today and will be ordering one MHT1003N tomorrow.
Superconducting RF Cavities might not need cryogenics after all. This preprint appeared today:
373 K Superconductors
Unlike most HTS discussions this one showed actual test articles etc. Of course, it'll need extensive replication by other labs - something slowed down by the inventor's patent applications - but it could be very exciting indeed.
If the guy is making THz waves at high efficiency, then that alone is incredible. The Room Temp superconductors doubly so.

AAAS Eureka Alert press service is generally very reliable and this is the first time we have encountered this problem.
On the basis of multiple emails - many of which were rude and abusive by highly credentialed people who should have better manners given their senior position, the article will be withdrawn.
For those having nothing better to do but find personal fault with myself they can follow the above links and lose their breakfast, lunch and dinner elsewhere.
Just because that odious man [irrelevant political reference omitted] has set the bar so low for public discourse it does not follow that we all need to emulate him in our own discourse with others.
My apologies to those grossly offended by the occasional publication error. Also if the comments thread below is lost it can happen sometimes due to the way Facebook manages comment threads when articles are substantially updated.
The article is now withdrawn.

An easier way to draw large circles makes use of a trammel compass. The ones shown below were made by Starret, of Athol MA. I have a set I inherited from my father. He used them to loft wings. They are very handy; although my uses are not so lofty.
Mwvp...lol! Nice find. Guess I discovered similar reactions against emdrive experiments and theories on other forums. A veritable scientific food fight since the emdrive isn't supposed to work and hostility takes control of a keyboard. Kind of sad. Glad its elsewhere and not here for the most part.
The emdrive possibilities need to be narrowed down by experimentation. First replicate, confirm a force, then measure the environs, heat, air currents. E & H fields, ions, yada yada.
Guess what's been the most surprising is the apparent unwillingness by institutions to approach it purely from a debunking standpoint...rather than dismissing offhand, a prof leads a bunch of students to provide evidence of measurement error...something people opine about but haven't proven experimentally.
Just received confirmation of MHT1003NR3 order, so I wanted to go ahead a reveal my build. As you can see in the two attached images, the experiment can be ran as a standard interferometer or a white-juday warp-field interferometer.
In standard mode, I can measure displacement in the range of nanometers. The white-juday mode requires drilling holes into the end-plates so the laser can pass through the center of the frustum - so I expect this would be done after standard interferometer experiments are completed.
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I used water jet cutting for my frustums. It will leave a light burr on the backside but can be removed.
I used water jet cutting for my frustums. It will leave a light burr on the backside but can be removed.
Do you recall what that cost?
NSF-1701A Build Update - To lap or not to lap.
Lapping is method of precision surfacing, IOW making something as flat as possible. I decided to do this for the end plates of the frustum. So I took the 1/8 inch copper disk that I had roughly polished and started manually lapping the disk thanks to a local who gave me some lapping disks, polish and a lot of useful information. His job was to optically polish disks for mil/aero stuff he could not talk about. Fair enough.
I've got a Huuuge goal ahead of me, a 100X force improvement, so "perfection in reflection" is one of the things I am trying. Now, to what I found...
The flat 1/8 inch copper plate from the vendor is far from flat; thanks to manufacturing tolerances, shipping, my handling, etc. It has taken me 4 hours (total) of lapping with my lapping plate and wheel and I just now got it to where all surface imperfections are almost gone, except for the sandpaper striations.
It was 60 to 220 grit sanding, so it is only rough finishing. Diamond cutting wheels are only as good as the lapping plate they're on, and way too expensive for this home-boy, so hand lapping is what I'm doing.
Where this will lead is up through 2000 grit sandpaper and 3 types of polish: 9, 5 and 3 micron. Yes, I said 3 micron...optically near flat and perfect. This I have chosen for both the inner surfaces of the top and bottom plates. Will it help? Not sure, but it certainly won't hurt.
In the process, I'm learning something new in the shop...never a bad thing. Pics will follow a bit later. Oh, here's what the big boys use for large disks:
p.s. I received a quote for this entire process from a Chicago shop: $675 for 100 microns minimum.
I used water jet cutting for my frustums. It will leave a light burr on the backside but can be removed.
Do you recall what that cost?$260 was the minimum charge of the first ones I did, but I found another one if I supplied the DXF files to cut, they would do it for a $100 minimum. Which was better. I'm not cheap, but I'm frugal.
I was told by someone else you can also use a router and build a jig to cut circles, I thought it was worth a try, although the end product wasn't quite good enough considering the time I spent making the jig and the quality of cut I got. The copper tended to bind and fill around the cutting tool.
I have a band saw that I've been thinking of using and make a jig to do it too. I can mount a rough cut piece of copper to a piece of dense particle board and with a 18 tpi blade, cut out the endplates. I've used this trick before and the key was to use wax to bond the copper sheet to the dense particle board. You can heat up the particle board in the oven to ~375-400F, wipe the wax onto the particle board and then slide the copper sheet onto it. Take it off the same way and then it's easy to just clean up the wax.
Food for thought this morning.
Shell
PS: Make sure you use a particle board with a smooth painted surface or a bonded veneer.
I used water jet cutting for my frustums. It will leave a light burr on the backside but can be removed.
Do you recall what that cost?$260 was the minimum charge of the first ones I did, but I found another one if I supplied the DXF files to cut, they would do it for a $100 minimum. Which was better. I'm not cheap, but I'm frugal.
I was told by someone else you can also use a router and build a jig to cut circles, I thought it was worth a try, although the end product wasn't quite good enough considering the time I spent making the jig and the quality of cut I got. The copper tended to bind and fill around the cutting tool.
I have a band saw that I've been thinking of using and make a jig to do it too. I can mount a rough cut piece of copper to a piece of dense particle board and with a 18 tpi blade, cut out the endplates. I've used this trick before and the key was to use wax to bond the copper sheet to the dense particle board. You can heat up the particle board in the oven to ~375-400F, wipe the wax onto the particle board and then slide the copper sheet onto it. Take it off the same way and then it's easy to just clean up the wax.
Food for thought this morning.
Shell
PS: Make sure you use a particle board with a smooth painted surface or a bonded veneer.
Shell, a few more thoughts from someone who has machined far too much OFHC copper. It is a nasty, "sticky" metal. Don't even think about using carbide cutters. High speed tool steel router bits, preferably flooded with coolant, work extremely well for pattern routing copper. The next best thing from flood coolant is...bacon grease. Never climb cut, and watch your fingers! If the tool grabs the work, don't argue with it! It will win every time. I've been doing this for over 40 years, and still have all of my fingers.
That is the very first time I've heard of that, but it makes sense, I had a machinist who swore by petroleum jelly. He ran out of petroleum jelly once and used Vicks Vaporub, we all breathed better that day. 
Still no anomalous thrust, but man the shop smells DELICIOUS!
Shell
I can see it now:Still no anomalous thrust, but man the shop smells DELICIOUS!
Shell
