Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6 (1:144)

• #420 by roma847 on 17 Jan, 2014 22:04
• Quote from: RichO on 17 Jan, 2014 12:48

  MANFRED,
  
      I think your scratch building of the lamp shields is just masterfull! I sure will not be going to such extents, I'll just use the stamped metal ones I found at the model railroad site.
  
    I feel that you have nailed the lamp situation with the construction, and with the wattage (2mA). When you get an entire side lit up I think this will look outragious! Just inform the newly established electricians dept. that the entire project may seem overwhelming at the moment, but just to concentrait on one side at a time and all will fall into place. When I got started with my lighting, it just seemed a bit to much at first, but slow and steady wins the race. ( I have vissions of the FSS/RSS all lit up!!)
  
    I am glad that Dave and I could convince you that, dealing with the infection will look so much better!! Now we all have to spread the virus so all will see the light.
  
    Congrtulations my friend, the build already going to look so kewel, keep up the great work!!
  

  
  Hi Rich,
  
  thanks for your compliments and remarks. 
  
  I would be happy if I could use your finished screens, then I could save myself a lot of work during the expansion of the shields.   But unfortunately there is not for sale in Europe and the order in the U.S. plus shipping and duty is probably quite expensive and takes forever.
  
  You might send me like a handful shields in the letter to try some experiments (it's only a joke).
  
  My first lighting attempts all just experiments but so far to collect experiences and impressions.
  
  BTW the overwhelming effect of the LED light is extremely unrealistic in the photos and seems to be an exposure effect of the digicam and the lighting conditions in my room, but in reality the MLP it looks really cool and not so outshined, don't understand.
  
  But I can understand your concerns, the LED light is so bright that you must be careful that it is not too much for such a model.
  
  It's really a pity that I can do the photos not better. Probability one should not take pictures with the automatic exposure of the digicam and should adjust the exposure manually.
  
  BTW, I have shown this picture before, what do you say now about this?
  
  
  Source: NASA
  
  Overwhelming effect, or Launch Pad reality at night?
  
  
• #421 by roma847 on 17 Jan, 2014 22:08
• Quote from: Davp99 on 17 Jan, 2014 16:20

  Kudos to the both of You. You would make Michelangelo Proud.
  

  
  Thanks Dave for your nice words, I'm glad if you like it.
  
  
• #422 by roma847 on 18 Jan, 2014 21:48
• Hi folks & Rich,
  
  when we have completed the lighting chapter, then it goes here to the next chapter: Countdown and Lift-off
  
  
  Source: MrGoatchannel (YouTube)
  
  From because there is no increase opportunities, that would be the ultimate challenge, or not?
  BTW, then we'd have to build our MLP instead of paper from sheet metal.
  
  
• #423 by SoheilEsy on 25 Jan, 2014 16:59
• 
  
  http://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/3d-nasa-launch-complex-shuttle-model/600347
• #424 by roma847 on 25 Jan, 2014 19:44
• I know these LC-39 3D Models, very impressive and a good help for structural studies. But for detailed studies on scratch building you need close-ups of the original real thing.
  
  
• #425 by shuttlemodeler on 25 Jan, 2014 21:34
• Manfred is right.   And when you look at them in detail they are not entirely accurate.  It is much better to study the real thing.   Plus its more fun
• #426 by roma847 on 27 Jan, 2014 08:54
• Hi there folks,
  
  yep Tom, we fully agree.    For example, looking for the lamps on the MLP Side-1 in these 3D models which I need for lighting the MLP now would hopeless. For this, you need good reference photos, close-ups possible.   
  
  As you have already noticed, the lighting you have to advance quite carefully consider both in terms of laying the cables and lights on the model as well as its power supply or the distribution of the lamps on individual electric circuits.
  
  Therefore, a more accurate inventory of lamps on the MLP Side 1 now was necessary, I made reference to my standard reference image of the STS-6 . After what I have been able to recognize it, were installed at the former MLP-2 about 21 lamps that probably but not always, were all turned on simultaneously.
  
  
  Source: retrospaceimages.com
  
  And so it is now really seriously. I fear namely that the installation of LED lamps will probably be quite a tricky business, especially since most lamps must be mounted below the already installed Blast Shields somehow.
  
  And I would imagine that lamps 1 - 9 to connect to a circuit and possibly already before laying to solder in series and then to attach. Against the wall (1 - 4) this might be relatively simple, and on the ceiling of the lower access platform (5 - 9) that should work too, because there are no cumbersome fittings there that are in the way.
  
  Much more difficult, however, the wiring of the lamps 10 - 21 seems to be, since they must be including feed cables probably be threaded individually under the canopies and then moved to the MLP wall down. There is simply not enough space to carry out and fix a lamp strand, let alone to solder wires from 0.1 mm, which is intended to illustrate this older picture again.
  
  
  
  Then the feed cables on the MLP underbody could be soldered to a circuit in series. From there, the supply and the return lines run for the current bank, which is connected to the power supply.
  
  This is the current bank, an electronics freak built me, ​​with which I can supply eight independent circuits, each with up to 12 LEDs in series, with a constant current (6 mA).
  
  
  
  And here I'm testing four series Sunny White LEDs using the test box at different brightnesses.
  
  
  
  Well, now I can start the preparation of the lamps. For this, the lamp shades must be painted first times that I've skewered on toothpicks here.
  
  
  
  That's it for the beginning of this difficult chapter that will surely make even a few headaches.
  
  
• #427 by roma847 on 04 Feb, 2014 22:37
• Hi folks,
  
  and so we turn for a change to the TSM ladders, that eventually need to be finished, too.
  
  As you maybe can remember, those are these delicate PE ladders (0.15 mm), which must be treated with caution, as they very quickly can be deformed.
  
  
  
  Specifically, it is first of all to the ladders on the outer sides of TSMs. These have this continuous strip (red arrow) in the middle, that do not have the ladders on the front and back of the service boxes (green arrow).
  
  
  Source: NASA
  
  Here is a first fitting, and the size is quite good.
  
  
  
  The difficulty is now that the ladders are standing on short struts, so approximately at a distance of 1.2 mm, for which I have here once inserted a spacer strips.
  
  
  
  Before tricky assembly, I first glued the median strip, and even that is a stressful affair in these gossamer ridge widths. Therefore, one must necessarily fix the ladder and the strip and can only getting progressively stick with tiny droplets, to which have used this time the liquid "10 sec Superglue".
  
  
  
  And that looks like this.
  
  
  
  
  
  Now, however, the feet need to be attached, wherefore I really wanted to take a railing with the same width. But how to best and safest glue, without it's going wrong now?
  
  
  
  So I am still wondering whether I should glue the ladder on the railing, or just separately cut the feet and glue and then bend over what I imagine almost easier to me.
  
  Stressful would certainly be both.
  
  
• #428 by roma847 on 09 Feb, 2014 22:05
• Hello together,
  
  now I have made some tests to glue the supports on the ladder, but it requires also suitable adhesive in these delicate structures, the only wetted difficult. Therefore, one should take for better liquid glue and no gel.
  
  In order not to disfigure the prepared ladder, I have taken a damaged ladder for the tests and glued a rest strip. But the positioning of such thin parts when gluing with superglue is not easy, that's a problem.   
  
  
  
  In such smallest contact surfaces is the danger large that the part may peel off again, which is also happening. And then you have to clean the parts again and re-glue as the adhesive surface was simply too small. 
  
  Then I bent the support feet, where they can become detached again.
  
  
  
  
  
  But the result still not convinced me, and maybe I need another solution for fixing the supports on the ladder.   So I've been looking for a liquid Superglue with a fine needle and found this here.
  
  
  Source: http://www.glitzerperlen.de
  
  This is a high quality jewelry glue GS Hypo Cement, with which you can attach beads exactly onto wires or cords. With its micro fine dosing of 0.7 mm, this adhesive is suitable for the very smallest parts and the precise dosage, which can bring, for example, even the smallest amounts of adhesive into a bead. He sticks et al glass, metal, stone, ceramics, beads and dries clean and clear (drying time approx 10 min.).
  
  I think, this adhesive could also help me in the preparation of small lampshades for lighting the MLP, I will try.
  
  
• #429 by Ronpur50 on 09 Feb, 2014 22:20
• I am amazed by your ability to find a solution to any problem you encounter!  It is a privilege and joy to watch!
• #430 by roma847 on 10 Feb, 2014 20:45
• Thanks Ron for your nice words, but there is a solution for everything, you only have to look long enough.
  
  That's why I want to come back to this picture again.
  
  
  
  Above the ladder is a clamp that possibly could still come into consideration as a solution for the ladder support. I've even bent for test purposes from 0.25 mm steel wire for a single step, sitting at the top of the TSM's almost as an extension of the ladders on the sides of the service boxes, as can be seen here.
  
  
  Source: NASA
  
  By using of such clamps as ladder supports the long ladder might get a more stable grip than with the thin PE supports. These clamps one could stick in the distance of the supports in pre-punched holes and then carefully glue the ladder punctual, for which one would need about 10 pieces.
  
  
  
  Here the ladder is only once placed trial basis.
  
  
  
  This solution would indeed mean by the brackets also some effort, but it would probably totaling more stable, but I only have to let go in peace through the head.
  
  Meanwhile, I have also experimented with the lamp shades on and found these tiny tubes or beads for the sockets.
  
  
  Source: www.i-perlen.de
  
  Are the crimp tubes (left) and crimp beads (right) of silver-plated nickel, having an inner diameter of 0.8 mm and an outer diameter of 1.3 mm,
  
  
  
  and thus fit into the shielding sleeves, here with inserted tube.
  
  
  
  And here's even a Sunny White LED trial basis threaded, so what is feasible in principle.
  
  
  
  As far as times for today.
  
  
• #431 by RichO on 11 Feb, 2014 00:31
• MANFRED,
  
    Your ability to find solutions to your problems is very admirable. I am learning a lot about finding solutions to my build problems. Like you said " you only have to look long enough" .. To quote Qui gon Jin "I'm sure another solution will present itself" It's with this philosophy that I have finaly found a solution to my build quandary. Thanks for your inspiration!   
  
    The ladders are looking very cool, and the crimp beads look like they will be just what you need for your lighting chapter. Keep up the great work, your an inspiration to us all.
• #432 by roma847 on 11 Feb, 2014 13:27
• Thanks Rich for your appreciative words.
  
  Yep, there are usually multiple solutions to a problem. Therefore, one must always experiment and fiddle about before you decide. And of this solution you must then be convinced that it is better than another.
  
  And for a better solution you have to develop new ideas. And therefore I think about that sometimes a few days and weigh up the pros and cons. To see clearly, often will do a change of perspective. And very often there are also the valuable tips from other forum members, providing new ideas and assistance.
  
  The decisive criterion is then at the end of the feasibility, which is why you often have to choose compromise solutions.
  
  These are my experiences.
• #433 by RichO on 11 Feb, 2014 18:51
• Words to live by. Thanks
• #434 by roma847 on 16 Feb, 2014 21:24
• Hello friends,
  
  and because I now have clarity on the lampshades, I wanted directly times start with the preparation of a first major series. But I can tell you this small stuff keeps quite on.
  
  After widening of the screens I have this put on toothpicks and then placed each a 1 mm mark for cutting  under the magnifying glass so that the results reasonably uniform lengths. Just out of the hollow of the hand that will not work.
  
  
  
  And then it started with the cut of the shades with the Dremel cutting disc, in which I have placed the toothpick on a solid base.
  
  
  
  In the first experiments I have kept the top on the left side with my fingertips, what's not recommended, as the matter during separation is felt hot.   And I had to hold these things tight, otherwise they fly right away what happened to me at the beginning. But with tweezers, it went much better. 
  
  
  
  And these are the first 17 of a total of 33 shades in the first series I have cut. Larger burrs I have ground on the side of the running disc.
  
  
  
  And then even the small crimp tubes for the bulb sockets was next step,
  
  
  
  which I glued with Superglue.
  
  
  
  And here are the parts with the threaded Sunny White LED. In this state, I now want to paint the shades even from outside, and only then, the LEDs can be threaded.
  
  
  
  So all in all a pretty tricky procedure, which will be quite stressful ... 
  
  Mickle makes also pretty much crap, hard to believe, but true.
  
  
• #435 by roma847 on 18 Feb, 2014 22:33
• Let's go on with the lamps.
  
  When installing the Sunny White LEDs and the centering crimp tubes in the shortened lampshades you have now to take care, among other things the mounting depth, so that the light emission is shielded as possible. If the LED namely to protrude as far out of the screen, you get too much blinding light around what was seen in the beginning and does not look so great.
  
  To get now the LEDs in a horizontal position as far into the screen into it, I was thinking the following principle. When gluing the tubes, they should, if possible slightly protrude further into the socket, because the little wires still also need some space.
  
  
  
  As the warm white Sunny White LEDs (0603) unfortunately are not as tiny as the Pure White (0401) you have a little to fiddle with the geometry, especially as the LEDs are 1.6 mm wide after all.
  
  For this you have now to bend the wires strands soldered to the sides of the chip gently to the middle and then thread it through the screen and the tube,
  
  
  
  what it looks like this.
  
  
  
  And as you can see, this arrangement works quite well on the installation depth here, and the LED closes nicely flush with the screen. 
  
  
  
  And now we can see the effect of different light emission quite well. At the left, the LED lamp fits perfectly in the screen. The right lamp is my first prototype in which the LED protrudes too far out of the screen, resulting in a brighter light to escape and to unsightly blinding.
  
  
  
  Although these are just subtleties, but the visual effect is remarkable, I think.
  
  In this sense, it can now go further.
  
  
• #436 by Ronpur50 on 18 Feb, 2014 23:43
• For what it is worth, I agree.  It makes a big difference.  Great work!
• #437 by roma847 on 20 Feb, 2014 21:55
• Thanks Ron,
  I fully agree with you, that's the way I'll go on with the lighting!
  
  
  
• #438 by shuttlemodeler on 21 Feb, 2014 00:24
• Manfred:
  
  YES..... that effect looks great now.  Subdued a bit.  Looks so realistic.
  
  Tom
• #439 by Davp99 on 21 Feb, 2014 16:27
• Almost Spot on, Great Stuff Manfred