-
#260 by roma847 on 17 Jul, 2013 14:04
-
But I have to make a few more of these lifting lugs, and with this variant they look well and much better than from the Paper kit..
I started with the front-panels made of 0,3 mm sheet. The thin slices I have cut out of plastic pipe 1.8 mm diameter and glued.
Then I wanted to try but also the smaller lifting lugs for a change. After the paper kit the triangles are merely folded and glued together, what would actually suffice.
But it is also a little different. My parts are made of 0.3 mm sheet that I have glued small thin slices from 1.2 mm insulating sleeve on both sides.
These smaller lifting lugs are stabilized by narrow struts on both sides, for which I've been using styrene strip 0.5 x 0.25 mm, which I again slightly longer allowed for better handling.
And these strips are of course on both sides and standing on their narrow side.
So first the front side,
and then the back side.
And then I have scratch-built the remaining larger lifting lugs including the two reserve lugs, which these TSM details now as far as done.
Before the parts can be mounted now, they need to go in the paint shop.
Up coming soon ...
-
#261 by Overflow on 18 Jul, 2013 02:20
-
WOW. This has to be one of the coolest things I have ever seen. You have my respect, Manfred!
-
#262 by RichO on 18 Jul, 2013 12:37
-
MANFRED,
I'm with OVERFLOW on this one. This is so cool!
So I am on the verge of starting my wiring chapter. I still have a little ways to go with the lighting, but I have started to aquire my materials for the metal wires. I thought I should ask you what your opinion is for the best kind of wire to use for ease of bending. As you know the crawler kit has a lot of wire bending to do and any advice to make things easyer would help alot.
I have been doing some experiments with hardened music wire, but is very stiff and a little hard to bend. Any ideas? Thanks. -
#263 by roma847 on 18 Jul, 2013 13:05
-
WOW. This has to be one of the coolest things I have ever seen. You have my respect, Manfred!
Thanks Overflow for your nice compliment!
Yes, this ingenious technique fascinated me repeatedly on new and inspires me to try scratch-building of new details.
Now you know why I'm so interested in the Atlantis exhibition, maybe I can visit at some point even.
-
#264 by roma847 on 18 Jul, 2013 13:19
-
MANFRED,
I'm with OVERFLOW on this one. This is so cool!
So I am on the verge of starting my wiring chapter. I still have a little ways to go with the lighting, but I have started to aquire my materials for the metal wires. I thought I should ask you what your opinion is for the best kind of wire to use for ease of bending. As you know the crawler kit has a lot of wire bending to do and any advice to make things easyer would help alot.
I have been doing some experiments with hardened music wire, but is very stiff and a little hard to bend. Any ideas? Thanks.
Thanks Richo for your nice words too.
Before I can exactly answer your question for the best kind of wires you may use, tell me something about the diameters and lengths you want to install and have to bend, because the bending technique depends on.
-
#265 by Overflow on 18 Jul, 2013 21:44
-
WOW. This has to be one of the coolest things I have ever seen. You have my respect, Manfred!
Thanks Overflow for your nice compliment!
Yes, this ingenious technique fascinated me repeatedly on new and inspires me to try scratch-building of new details.
Now you know why I'm so interested in the Atlantis exhibition, maybe I can visit at some point even.
Let me know if you do! Maybe we can get the Atlantis retirement thread crew together.
-
#266 by RichO on 20 Jul, 2013 08:30
-
MANFRED,
So the wires that I am experimenting with are hardened music wire, and at several diameters. Curently I'm trying 1mm, 0.8mm, and 0.5mm. The finished lengths are up to 30cm and will have some soldering for split routs. Also I will have repeat patterns for group bundles. I think these will be ok tho, I just thought I would ask for your expert opinion. Thanks.
Now on to the paint department and more wire bending of your own. Have fun!
-
#267 by roma847 on 20 Jul, 2013 11:48
-
Yep, if I'll ever visit her Majesty, I'm telling you before in time know, then you can call the crew together, today rather than tomorrow ...WOW. This has to be one of the coolest things I have ever seen. You have my respect, Manfred!
Thanks Overflow for your nice compliment!
Yes, this ingenious technique fascinated me repeatedly on new and inspires me to try scratch-building of new details.
Now you know why I'm so interested in the Atlantis exhibition, maybe I can visit at some point even.
Let me know if you do! Maybe we can get the Atlantis retirement thread crew together.
For you lucky devil the exhibition is in front of your door and thus a stone's throw ...
-
#268 by roma847 on 20 Jul, 2013 12:02
-
MANFRED,
So the wires that I am experimenting with are hardened music wire, and at several diameters. Curently I'm trying 1mm, 0.8mm, and 0.5mm. The finished lengths are up to 30cm and will have some soldering for split routs. Also I will have repeat patterns for group bundles. I think these will be ok tho, I just thought I would ask for your expert opinion. Thanks.
Now on to the paint department and more wire bending of your own. Have fun!
Hi Richo,
I don't know, why do you necessarily want to use hardened music wire, if you also want to bend it?
For these small diameters I'd rather use brass wire, which can be bent very well and accurately.
-
#269 by RichO on 31 Jul, 2013 12:11
-
MANFRED,
The choise of hardened music wire was simply a matter of availablity. I will have to search around the area here a bit for brass wire.
Keep building and having fun with your construction project. Thanks -
#270 by roma847 on 31 Jul, 2013 12:36
-
Richo,
it should not necessarily be brass wire, steel wire is also suitable, not only hardened!
-
#271 by crowe-t on 31 Jul, 2013 19:30
-
Manfred,
You are doing a fantastic job on all this!
Sorry, I realized I hadn't yet posted in this thread. I'm used to following along at ARC.
Mike.
-
#272 by roma847 on 31 Jul, 2013 22:07
-
Mike,
thanks for your kind words of recognition, I'll also on ARC soon again be back in the track.
BTW, and I hope you too.
-
#273 by Ronpur50 on 31 Jul, 2013 23:17
-
Wow, this is just amazing!! It looks like your miniaturizing the real thing!
-
#274 by roma847 on 03 Aug, 2013 20:10
-
Hi Ronpur50,
thanks for the nice words. Yep, I am trying as close as possible to the real thing.
-
#275 by roma847 on 03 Aug, 2013 20:32
-
So now it can continue after a small breather.
Before the small lifting lugs to the TSMs can be glued, should advance only the pipes come about that at the start of the SSWS water the umbilicals around sprayed is. This sequence is certainly appropriate, because the lugs when customizing the pipes only in the way would be and would break anyway.
For the construction of pipes I looked again more accurately how they are running, what is actually slightly more complicated due to several arches around the TSMs and additional juvenescence.
Here you can see the two tubes on the LH2-TSM, a thicker and a thinner, which come from the top deck of the MLP and upwards run above the door and the outer side wall.
Source: NASA
The tubes reduces to the middle of the the top and have spray nozzles at the end. Shortly before the juvenescence of the thicker pipe there is a lateral branch, also with a nozzle at the end.
Source: NASA
The reduced thicker pipe runs then above the umbilical opening flap on the back and ends there also behind a tight curve in a nozzle, which is quite good to see on this image.
Source: NASA
The pipes are sitting on little supports for that I used Evergreen square profile of 1,0 x 0,75 mm above the door and at the other locations square profiles 0,5 x 0,5 mm.
Here are the supports glued already.
I wanted to use 1.2 mm and 0.5 mm for the diameter of the tubes. A 0.3 mm steel wire is put inside the thinner brass tube as a juvenescence.
And then I have started with bending and tried in different materials, as well as some variants of bending.
Brass tube (1.0 mm) was relatively easy and above all accurately bent, and so has the advantage that the arches remain unchanged, in contrast to plastic profiles is not bent back. Would be another advantage, that as a juvenescence to Ø 0.5 mm could easily insert a corresponding rod. However, the pipe at the 90° bends slightly toward the buckling, what looks visually not so perfect. For the thinner tube (0.5 mm) with the juvenescence to Ø 0.3 mm the effect, however, may be not so serious.
The flexibility of the plastic rods depends on the respective material. The already grey painted 1.2 mm round profile was relatively brittle and began to break despite local warming in some 90° bends.
The white Evergreen rod is, however, more ductile and did well to turn even without warming. However, the bending points tend to and again something to bend up, as long as the part still not is glued, what but again can be corrected before gluing.
When assembling of bent pipes, can be better to process plastic on plastic (tube/support) because the seat can be adjusted easily. Superglue bonding of the brass tube on the plastic supports must be careful, however, as soon as possible.
Here you can see a test fit,
and here the bent profile.
And here all three variants are set across, the grey profile with the breaking points in the middle.
So far again for the beginning.
-
#276 by RichO on 04 Aug, 2013 11:48
-
MANFRED,
This all looks very great. I see your delema about the 1.2mm round grey rod, to easily broken. I personaly like bend #3. The brass tubing and rod is what I will be using for my crawler build. I like the idea of a slightly more delicate feel with the brass and sharper corners. However we all know that you will make the best judgment and choose what works best for you.
Keep bending and have fun! -
#277 by roma847 on 04 Aug, 2013 15:17
-
Thanks Richo for your encouraging words.
A solid brass rod instead of tube might also be appropriate. Would be just the difficulty to connect the branch pipe and the reduced pipe at the end. This can be done easier with plastic parts using normal plastic glue.
What do you think about brass soldering? It is not quite as easy, I think, isn't it? And then you have to glue the bent pipe with Superglue on the TSM. 
But I hope, I'll find a way out again ...
-
#278 by Overflow on 06 Aug, 2013 22:16
-
Hey Manfred, is this the model you're building?
http://www.amazon.com/Dragon-Models-Discovery-Transporter-400-Scale/dp/B00BLG81GM/ref=sr_1_20?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1375827177&sr=1-20&keywords=space+shuttle+models -
#279 by roma847 on 07 Aug, 2013 09:56
-
Overflow,
go to the beginning of my thread, then you can find special information about my Launch Pad project.
This is a finished model of Discovery by Dragon (1:400).
I'm building the Challenger (STS-6), using the old Revell Launch tower (1:160) kit 4911, the Airfix shuttle stack kit (1:144) and the paper kits (1:160) by David Maier for the MLP and the crawler in a modified mixed scale (1:144/1:160). Also I am using the LC39 Detail kits (PE parts) by LVM Studios.
