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#2300 by roma847 on 08 Dec, 2022 22:16
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Thanks Mike for your nice words,
do you really mean? 
So far the frame box still looks pretty boring, but with the itsy-bitsy Pneumatic drive details the box will come to life.
And so some more sub assemblies will follow yet, as I have already presented elsewhere without having counted them until now.
Actually almost all the details that can be seen, like the screw jack bracket assemblies with the horizontal pipes of the pneumatic system, several ladders, the canister outriggers with their guide shoes, instrumentation panels and access doors, ECS ducts etc., as you can see in this image.
Source: NASA (STS-135)
Stay tuned and you will see, if I get it done.
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#2301 by mike robel on 09 Dec, 2022 00:47
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Manfred, I am absolutely sincere. (I wish my German was good enough and I don't like to use translators.) I leave off all sorts of details and decals on 1/72 scale airplanes because they are too damn small and fiddley for me to deal with. Indeed, I frequently don't even put decals on my 1/35th scale armor anymore. I just paint them forest green or OD Green and am done with it. Not even easy camouflage schemes.
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#2302 by roma847 on 09 Dec, 2022 22:54
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Thanks Mike for your nice comment,
you don't need to write in German, I understand you very well.
Such itsy-bitsy parts like those aren't for everyone.
The most important thing is that you are satisfied with the result of your work.
BTW, the handling of decals is also a very tricky matter, that can quickly fail and become frustrating.
Nobody is perfect, neither am I.
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#2303 by llanitedave on 12 Dec, 2022 05:12
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Manfred, I see that as of last month you've been working on this project for ten years. What a truly amazing journey you are taking us on! It looks to me that as time goes on, the level of detail and realism that you put into this work only gets more and more exquisite. How you do it I'll never know, but I do know that your combination of skill, vision, and patience is unique in the strictest sense of the word.
It's no exaggeration to realize what a treasure you are!
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#2304 by roma847 on 12 Dec, 2022 21:01
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Thanks Dave for your interest and the nice words.
You're right, this skill has only developed over the years, and so meanwhile I trust myself that I can scratch build almost anything as long as I have good reference photos or even technical drawings and it doesn't get any smaller. But in the meantime I've already reached parts < 1 mm, as will be seen later next.
It feels like if I really got into a detail rush, and am considering the Payload Canister as a kind of feasibility study. After that, I'll have to slow down me a bit more, especially since it's all very time-consuming.
But stay tuned my friend, the show is going on.
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#2305 by roma847 on 13 Dec, 2022 22:43
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Hello everybody,
before I get to the details of the Door Actuator Pneumatic Drive which sit in and on the frame box, I first have glued the four short support struts onto the bottom frame of the second box.
Doing it, picking up and securely holding these 2 mm long tiny strips is a special exercise that requires a lot of patience and two steady hands, since the tip of the tweezers just barely fits over them.
And then you have to dip the tiny strip carefully into the blob of glue and place it correctly as soon as possible, which is why the frame has to be firmly fixed, that's the be-all and end-all of the matter.
After that I've always still aligned the strips,
namely from both sides, so that they stand vertically after gluing.
And already I had twins.
And so to the drive details which sit in and on the frame box, which I've puzzled my head over for quite some time to first understand their construction, 
and then to determine the dimensions of the individual parts on the screen and to scale them to my scale (1:160) using a reference measurement (blue), which is always very time-consuming, especially since you still have to determine dimensions from other image views.
Source: NASA (STS-132)
In order to preferably keep an overview, I have numbered the individual parts,
Source: NASA (STS-135)
an those would be:
1 Gear box, 2 Coupler, 3 Base plate, 4 Pneumatic cylinder, 5 Pneumatic pipes, 6 Horizontal pipes, which are connected to the Screw jacks.
In the next image one can see three more parts:
7 Shaft, 8 Screw, 9 Coupler, which I want to leave it at for now.
Source: NASA (STS-132)
Then I started scratching the individual parts, the small white Base plate 3 (0,13 mm x 1,7 mm x 1,7 mm) was quickly cut to size.
For the back upright standing Gear box 1 I used an Evergreen strip (0,5 mm x 1,5 mm x 3 mm),
to the front of it I glued a black faceplate (0,25 mm) to achieve the required thickness of 0,75 mm.
The Coupler 2 sits on the Base plate 1 and is a tiny cube (0,75mm x 0,75mm x 0,75 mm), whose dimensions I've corrected a bit again.
This coupler is connected to the Gear box 1 by a Shaft 7 and still gets a small Screw 8 on the top.
For the Hydraulic cylinder 4 I'll use a gray rod (Ø 1 mm), that sits on a Coupler 9, which might be connected to the gear box.
As far as my interpretation of the individual parts of the Pneumatic door drive, however without claiming to be correct.
Luckily it doesn't have to work.
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#2306 by roma847 on 19 Dec, 2022 21:00
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Hello friends,
Game over at the Football World Cup and congratulations to the new world champion Argentina and to Lionel Messi as the best player of the tournament, who finally crowned his career - credit where credit is due!
And with that, back to normality again and with renewed enthusiasm back to my crafting table with the Payload Canister.
Well, the smaller the parts become, the more difficult the entire handling during assembly and especially when gluing them.
For a better idea of the Door Actuator Pneumatic Drive, I tried to make a 1:1 drawing with the dimensions of the individual parts that I had determined, whereby the minimum distances between them let hardly be drawn.
But it didn't make me much smarter than before, except that everything is very small, what I knew already before too.
First I glued the bottom plate (3) to the coupler (2) onto both upper frames.
On closer inspection, I noticed that the part between the coupler (2) and the gearbox (1) is not a shaft (7), but belongs to the coupler, in which a shaft probably runs that connected to the gearbox.
Source: NASA (STS-132)
For this connector I used the Punch & Die Set in order to punch two mini cylinders (Ø 0,6 mm) made of Styrene (0,5 mm).
In order to be able to glue these tiny ones onto the coupler, I had to carefully clamp the frame upright between two steel rulers, which also worked. The only question was how I could hold this tiny plug during gluing it to the coupler?
Even with the sharpest tweezers that would not work, since the coupler there only measures 0,75 mm x 0,75 mm. That's why the only option left was the method I've already practiced, carefully prickling the mini cylinder with the tip of the cutter so that it gets stuck, and setting it down even more carefully on the coupler that was previously dabbed with glue, which at least worked for the first frame.
As one can see in this image, there is another narrow cross brace directly behind the Gearbox (1), which is helpful for later gluing the upright gearbox and provides it with support.
Source: NASA (STS-132)
For this purpose, the frame was re-clamped again,
after which this cross brace (0,25 mm x 0,5 mm) could be glued into the frame.
To glue the gearbox, the frame must be re-clamped again, for which the two clamping rulers must be put under with a Balsa board (2 mm) so that the connector meets the gearbox ahead, what I've only tried so far. 
And this point is approx. 0,5 mm below the upper edge of the gearbox, what I determined from this image, among other things, which shows how I have to collect the dimensions for the scratch construction from different photos.
Source: NASA (STS-135)
During the same procedure on the other frame, the night before last, late at night (1:30 a.m.), the accursed mishap happened to me again that during pinching it between the rulers the frame suddenly jumped out of the tweezers and fell to the ground, what made my hair stand on end left because I suspected bad things.
Since I unfortunately couldn't see no such thing when I first looked hopefully at the floor in front of me, I then again on my knees searched everything around the desk with the flashlight, but finally gave up in frustration, 
since I was fed up and finally wanted to go to bed ... 
The next morning it was time for furniture move about, for which I've pulled out the container and put the sideboard aside to be able to search properly again.
Lo and behold, after I had picked up a few dust bunnies, my heart jumped for joy,
because then my inflamed eyes discovered the midget for my joy.
Then I also could glued the narrow cross brace into this frame.
Now I can try calmly install the gearboxes into the two frames.
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#2307 by roma847 on 23 Dec, 2022 23:10
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Hello everybody,
and with this I'll come now to the gluing of the Gear box (1) in the narrow space behind the Coupler (2) and the cross brace, which I've been puzzling my head over for a long time broken how best to do it,
among other things about how I can hold and act on the fragile frame in the most gentle way, because there is not much space for safe access.
To do this, I first grabbed the frame with the tweezers directly behind the cross brace, have fixed the tweezers in this position with a clamp,
and parked in such a way that the gearbox can be pushed into the gap with another pair of tweezers.
For a quick sequence of steps when gluing, I grabbed the Gear box with the pointed tweezers and also fixed them with a clamp for quick access and put them aside. So much for the theory.
Then I carefully dabbed a tiny drop of Revell glue into the narrow gap onto the cross brace, for which I always use an Acupuncture needle (Ø 0,2 mm), and immediately carefully inserted the Gear box into the gap from below with a lot of feeling and a steady hand in front of the cross brace and glued to it. There isn't much time for alignment and correction, but it's still possible.
Then the coupling flange was still glued to the upper end of the Gear box with MEK.
And that was it already, and I was finally able to let go of the frame and lay it down.
I could be quite satisfied with this result, which is roughly what I had imagined.
And with the frame laid on the bottom part, the first Door Actuator Drive is taking on more and more shape and I like it.
And in the same way I glued the other Gear box into the second frame, which wasn't rocket science anymore once you know how to do it.
Now I can tackle the two Pneumatic cylinders (4) on the underside of the frames.
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#2308 by mike robel on 24 Dec, 2022 14:15
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Geeze Manfred. You are the "Man of Detail"
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#2309 by roma847 on 24 Dec, 2022 14:31
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Hello Mike,
if you want you can also say, a Detail junkie!
I can't help myself, it's my own fault.
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#2310 by roma847 on 24 Dec, 2022 16:10
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Hello friends,
I wish you all a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.
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#2311 by roma847 on 30 Dec, 2022 11:34
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Hello everybody,
I hope you tolerated all the culinary delights well and were happy about the presents.
Now that the holidays are over, I want to get back to the crafting table and carry on a little further to finally finish these tricky Door drives.
In the meantime, I've also gotten a little more clarity about the possible function of this special drive and transmission technology, what is always part of it for me.
Doing it I found out that my Coupler (2) is a Bevel Gearbox, through which the shafts in the horizontal pipes (6) are driven, which are connected to the Screw Jacks, which are connected with the upper linkages of the Door Actuators on the canister doors, by means of which the doors can be opened and closed.
Source: NASA (STS-135)
Such a Bevel Gearbox has the following basic structure, whereby the implementation of a rotary movement of a drive shaft within an angle of 90° to an output shaft is effected by means of bevel gears.
Source: drivelines.co.uk
And this Output shaft is located in the horizontal pipes (6) on either side of the door operator and is connected at both ends with Screw Jacks. The lifting movement of the rotating spindle with trapezoidal thread is carried out via a Worm gear, which is located in a gear housing, as can be seen in the image on the right.
In the lower area, the vertical lifting spindles are surrounded by a protective tube and in the upper area they are covered by black Folding bellows to protect against dirt, which are folded when doors are opened and unfolded when doors are closed.
Source: mechjacks.com
Next I want to scratch the gray Pneumatic Unit with the dome-shaped Cover (4) in front of the Housing (9), whatever these parts may be called, which unfortunately I haven't been able to find out yet.
Source: NASA (STS-135)
Anyway, both parts in 1:160 are pretty small, but more on that in the next post.
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#2312 by roma847 on 31 Dec, 2022 21:12
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Hello everybody in the old year,
and so let's go right ahead with the midgets of the Pneumatic Unit.
For the Housings (9) I've sanded two Styrene blocks (0,7 mm x 1,3 mm x 1,6 mm), and for the dome-shaped Cover (4) I did use a rod (Ø 1 mm x 1 mm) painted gray.
The small plugs were glued on in the usual way by using the proven fixation between the steel rulers.
The tiny Screw (8 ) on the Bevel Gearbox (2) I've hinted with a Fineliner (0,05 mm).
Now the Housings (9) of the Pneumatic Unit still had to be painted grey,
for which I've thought of a clever solution using a Paulaner Crown cap as a turntable with a tape strip glued on in reverse,
which also worked fine.
Now all I have to do is glue these things to the underside of the frame onto the rear Gear part (1), which should become pretty tricky, which is why I'm going to try that next year.
So it's time to say goodbye for this year and I wish everyone a happy New year. Come across well and stay tuned!
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#2313 by roma847 on 01 Jan, 2023 07:55
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#2314 by roma847 on 02 Jan, 2023 21:14
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Hello everybody in 2023,
I hope you all slipped in well and are in good spirits.
I also want to get off to a flying start and show how I assembled the Door drive, which consists of limply 20 individual parts if I counted correctly.
Before assembling both frames, however, the Pneumatic unit had to be glued to the rear Gear part (1) of the upper frame, for which I had to come up with a special holding device again, so that the fragile assemblies do not break down. 
And for this, only a magnetic holder was possible, for which the free end of the frame behind the gear part with 1 mm was just enough, 
wherefore I also needed a spacer template.
But then came the much more difficult exercise, namely gluing the upper frame onto the feet of this small table.
As can be seen from the following images, everything only worked again using special clamping technique,
by having the magic touch for this tricky job,
and softly, softly, catchee monkey ...
But it finally worked, although it was quite stressful because some struts had to be aligned and partially re-glued. 
And in the mounting position, the Door Actuator Pneumatic Drive looks quite passable.
But now the lateral struts, which had been prepared for some time, still had to be glued at the back of the frame,
here with the strut during a first fitting on the canister, which fitted quite well.
Then the second strut was glued opposite,
with which the first door drive was finally complete.
And this is the final test fitting of the drive on the Starboard Side of the canister,
which has withstood my critical eye.
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#2315 by roma847 on 05 Jan, 2023 11:28
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Hello everybody,
and now the Door actuator followed for the other canister side using the same knitting pattern.
With this the Port Side now also has its door drive.
Next up are the bottom linkages of the Door actuators on which the Screw Jacks are mounted.
Source: NASA (STS-135)
They are similar to the adjacent Access Platforms in terms of the structure of the mount, but are much narrower and therefore a bit more complicated, as one can see on this section at higher magnification,
Source: NASA (STS-135)
which is also good usable for determination of the dimensions needed for scratch building, what is now my next task.
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#2316 by roma847 on 06 Jan, 2023 17:38
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Hello everybody,
and I tackled that right away, which resulted in the following dimensions.
Source: NASA (STS-135)
In order to keep track of it myself, I marked the determined heights and widths in color, especially since they also were determined by using different reference dimensions (blue).
As reference dimensions I've used the dimensions of the Wall braces of the door actuators, which are identical to those of the Screw jacks.
But that's still not all the dimensions I need. A few widths from a front view of the screw jack are still missing, which cannot be determined exactly from this slightly slanted side view.
And for that this photo is a good reference.
Source: NASA (STS-135)
Determining the dimensions is always extremely time-consuming and a tiring torture for the eyes, but unfortunately I have to bite the bullet again and again , because unfortunately nothing can be scratched without dimensions.
The Wall braces I've put aside some time ago already.
Now I have to go through my stock and see which profiles I can use for the remaining parts.
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#2317 by roma847 on 10 Jan, 2023 18:20
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Hello everybody,
well then let's get to the mini parts for the Screw Jacks, which I have to scratch four times for both sides of the canister.
Since the Frame struts should always have the same length, it is again a matter of a reproducible cutting of the strips, for which I will use Evergreen strips (0,25 mm x 0,5 mm).
Therefore, the short question to people with a good sense of proportion.
How long do you think the snippets cut with this ruler setting will be?
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#2318 by roma847 on 10 Jan, 2023 20:02
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Thanks Elmer for liking,
and what length do you guess? Do you have good sense of proportion?
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#2319 by mike robel on 10 Jan, 2023 23:22
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Looks like 2.35 to 2.5mm to me Manfred.
